Now Then, Where Were We?

It has been over a year since my last blog. Who’d’ve thought this Covid plague would go on so long? (Besides you, of course. I’m sure you warned us ten or eleven times. If only we’d all listened to you.)

The bad news for India is the number of cases suddenly shot up faster than anywhere in the world. At its peak, in May 2021, there were over 400,000 new cases a day. (Don’t ask why. Scientist and politicians are still getting into fistfights over why the rocket-like surge so just don’t ask.) The good news for India is the number cases suddenly shot down faster than anywhere in the world. Less than 9,000 news cases a day by Thanksgiving. (Remember. Don’t ask why. Fistfights. Just be thankful.)

The good news for me is I was back in India before Christmas. All tourist visas were suspended last year until further notice but due to the Big Drop, the government is allowing tourists to trickle back in from limited locations for a limited time to see what happens. But they’re taking no chances. You need to apply for a special visa, good for only 30 days. (I’ll take it! It took awhile to apply but the Visa was granted the very next day. Way to hustle, India!) You need to show a negative Covid test not more than 72 hours before entering the country. (Got it. My 12th negative test in the last year. A world’s record, I think). You need a special new “Air Suvidha” health declaration. Mine arrived just 12 hours before my flight. (Wasn’t really worried – it’s good to have your nails bitten to the quick once in a while.) Then, finally, off to Siliguri via Paris via Delhi.

There won’t be a lot of time to do any major exploring this trip. But after a year and a half, I was just happy to see my old stomping grounds were still there.

And my good old, good old apartment was still there.

As soon as I was all settled in again, my friend Indi introduced me to what I unequivocally declare is the Best Pizza in All India. It’s at the Dakini Cafe. And it’s just a ten minute walk from where I live! What are the odds? (I have an app for this kind of thing and it says the odds are exactly one billion to one.)

If you’ve ever had New York hand-tossed, thin-crust pizza, you’ll have an idea of how good the crust is. If you’ve ever had Chicago deep-dish pizza, loaded with stretchy cheese and fresh everything, you’ll have an idea what the top is like. Put them all together and they spell something that’s not exactly a word – it’s more like a long string of m’s – but everyone gets what you mean. I call it “Slice of Siliguri!” (Wait, no that stinks.) I call it “Siliguri Super Duper Pizza!” (Yak, that’s even worse! Might want to stick with the long string of m’s.)

Tune in next week for the Best Coffee Shop in All of India! Well, maybe not all India but definitely all Siliguri. No, I change my mind, All of India!